Sa Pa

Although commercialized for the past few years, Sa Pa remains an unmissable destination on any journey in northern Vietnam. On a beautiful day, you'll be treated to stunning terraced rice fields, majestic verdant mountains, quaint villages with rustic thatched-roof houses, rushing rivers, and mighty waterfalls.

Nestled deep in the Hoang Lien Son range near the Chinese border, Sa Pa was established by the French as a mountain resort during colonial times to escape the sweltering heat of Hanoi summers. Today, weekends still draw the largest crowds to this picturesque highland town. Tourists flock from the capital to Sa Pa to visit the famous "Love Market," trek to local ethnic minority villages, or conquer the summit of Fansipan - Vietnam's rooftop.

There are around eight ethnic minority groups living in Lao Cai province: Hmong, Dao, White Thai, Giay, Tay, Muong, Ha Nhi, and Xa Pho. Most prominent in the town are the Red Dao people, easily identified by the dangling red turbans and intricately embroidered indigo jackets worn by women, and the Hmong, distinguished by their royal blue attire with minimal intricate embroidery. Travelers often encounter groups of Hmong women and children carrying heavy loads on their backs, containing firewood, poles, bamboo, bricks, soil, and agricultural produce.

Deep in the valleys surrounding Sa Pa, the Muong Hoa River flows through the villages of the Giay, Red Dao, and White Thai people, their small homes protruding from lush green terraced fields like diamonds on a putting green. Some tour companies offer trekking tours ranging from one to four days. Travelers sleep in tents or homestays, with equipment carried by Hmong people. However, note that while local homestay hosts may say otherwise, the Hmong and Dao people generally dislike being photographed unless paid. Be wary of any brochures depicting happy, smiling images of ethnic minorities; they are often staged.

Sa Pa is famous for its "Love Market" - a blend of mating rituals of peacocks, Middle Eastern arms bazaars, Amish square dances, terrible Pavarotti concerts, and Bangkok's Patpong district (minus the nudity). On Saturday evenings, young Red Dao men and women gather for a weekly courtship ritual, singing love songs in ethnic style to attract potential mates. These songs are highly personalized, boasting about the composer's appearance, domestic skills, and professional ethics. While Red Dao women are industrious, men seem to prefer spending most of their time drinking, smoking opium, or sleeping, occasionally prodding a lazy cow to move slower than they do. However, few of their songs mention drinking, smoking opium, sleeping, or prodding cow buttocks.

At 3,143 meters high, Fansipan is dubbed the "Everest of Vietnam." The trail to conquer the mountain peak is always bustling with young mountaineering groups, clad in ultralight rain gear from Travel Smith, creating a crowded scene at basecamp sites. Eco Travel organizes guided mountain climbing tours for adventure-seeking tourists.

Sa Pa town exudes a blend of old-world charm and modernity. Decrepit French colonial architecture, covered in moss, blends with brick and concrete mini-hotels sprouting up side by side - a hallmark of recent Vietnamese tourism. This chaotic cultural fusion might detract from aesthetics in many places, but in Sa Pa, against the backdrop of majestic natural scenery reminiscent of a mystical Shangri-la, it creates a charming allure. Sa Pa is peaceful and tranquil, just as the French originally intended when establishing this resort town. However, tourist facilities in Sa Pa are quite limited unless you opt to stay at Victoria Sapa - a luxurious 4-star hotel hidden on the central hillside.

Spring and autumn are the ideal times to visit Sa Pa. Summers are often rainy with muddy roads, while winters can see temperatures drop to freezing (in 2000, Sa Pa even experienced snowfall!). Weather plays a crucial role in enjoying the beauty of this place. Clouds and rain can obscure much of the breathtaking scenery. Therefore, put aside the urge to take photos with other tourists and delve deep into the countryside. There, you can still experience the simple life of ethnic minorities, much as it was centuries ago.